Brixton Market is full of hidden gems which can easily be overlooked. The meandering paths can be difficult to navigate, and even with the best intentions it can sometimes be difficult to find a place you’re looking for.
Wishbone has been the subject of very mixed reviews recently, with Time Out offering a 4/5 star rating whilst The Guardian declared the food “dreadful”. Given it is situated so close to home I figured it was worth checking out and seeing whether Wishbone was one of the many exciting new restaurants appearing in Brixton or another pop-up getting over-hyped beyond their station.
After looking for it for a solid 20 minutes we found the restaurant and were pleasantly surprised by the decor. The owners clearly had a good eye for design and had placed a lot of focus on making the place look nice visually, with the typography of the boards really standing out.
The menu unsurprisingly revolves around chicken, and whilst they offer a variety of options around it (such as sandwiches and burgers), we all opted for their famous chicken wings. We also ordered a selection of sides including the deep fried mac & cheese, fries, and what they called a “hot mess”.
We dug straight into the wings which were really brilliant. Crisp on the outside and fluffy moist chicken on the inside, cooked to perfection. They were served with a Korean chilli sauce which complemented them well. The real star however was the mac & cheese. Whilst it was on the pricey side at £4.50 for 3 (large) bites, it was undoubtedly the best part of the entire meal. Breaded croquettes with piping hot mac & cheese on the inside, this was unanimously the star of the meal.
Next was the “hot mess”. Whilst this sounded like a great option on the menu, consisting of hash browns coated in cheese, tomato sauce, jalapenos and pickles, it really disappointed everyone at our table. Far too greasy and the hash brown base just disintegrated when everything was piled on top and it failed to deliver.
The staff were incredibly friendly and helpful and seemed to be genuinely having a good time, with an eclectic playlist of old school hip hop playing in the background and a diverse cocktail menu.
When faced with Time Out and The Guardian’s polarising reviews it seems Wishbone would be an incredibly polarising place, but it turned out to be a better than average chicken restaurant. It’s glamorous fast food for double the price but double the flavour. It’s not going to change your life and it’s probably not worth making the trip down South exclusively for, but if you find yourself in the area you’ll be hard pushed to find a better place to eat for the price point.